The thick layers of salted dust embedded into my board, swirling about in differnet directions as i remove it form its board bad. Crisp wax needing a comb, to much excitment to de wax and re wax…. a quick comb and recoat ready and rolling. Power walking down the hil watching the sets rolls through rattleing with excitment… Feeling the salted air brush past my cheeks, watching as the water gets closer and closer. Ripping the velcro apart and strapping it on, its all comming back to my, waves at my feets, the oceans heart beat. push past the shore break. jump on, paddle oh my paddle what a wonderful feeling, a wave, to roll or just let it roll over you, let if go… go with the ebb and the flow. Sitting out the back waiting. Remembering what it is like to wait, The meaning of patients like no other. Connecting to the water once again, feeling the motion beneath you. And then here it comes, that mass of moving water that perfectly lined up wave your sitting on the peak for, lay down and paddle, push forward, and stand… sudden explosions of happiness occuring throughout your whole body. That feeling that only surfers know, the stoke, the pure brilliance of the moment. Living in the moment forever….
Forever is a long time, and sometimes we mix our emotions and daily habbits into our perception of time, time is not a measurment its an allowence … whether we choose to use it or not is up to us.
Recapping the morning, oh my ocean I have missed you … yes yes I have. Gratitude is a virtue.
2 weeks ago
